Laminated Beam Mast Support System
By Jim Schroeger
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The process described below outlines the process used to create a mast support system consisting of a laminated hardwood beam under the cabin top. It solves the cabin top sag and loose shroud problem that seems to be inherent to a Westwind that has not been properly maintained.
The beam is created by following these steps:
(1) Template: Using medium weight cardboard make a pattern of the exact shape of the inside cabin top where it meets the main cabin bulkhead.
(2) Jig: Using the pattern make a jig that represents the pattern shape. The jig must be in two parts in such a way that the top and bottom fit together in a curve that matches the cabin top pattern. Using the pattern that replicates the curve of the cabin top; trace the curve on a 2 x 10 piece of hem-fir. (standard building materials found at any lumber yard. ) Using a jig saw saw the board in two pieces along the curve. You will have to do this twice, creating four pieces. Using 3" drywall screws fasten the two top pieces and the two bottom pieces together, forming 3" thick top and bottom jig sections. Using 4" drywall screws securely anchor the bottom jig section to the bench top, (after covering the bench with wax paper). To use the jig place the required number of laminate pieces plus glue into the jig and follow the process outlined for compressing the jig and forming the beam.
(3) Hardwood: Cut 14 pieces of selected clear hardwood, ( we used cherry), that measure 1/4” by 3” by 6’ ( check your pattern length, if a length less than 6’ will do the job then make it so.)
(4) Clamps: Collect at least six 12” “C” clamps, 6 large wooden cabinet clamps and six 4’ bar clamps., (not the pistol grip style)
(5) Waxed Paper: Staple several layers of wax paper to the bench top where you plan to lay up the beam. Also, at this time coat all working surfaces of the jig with paraffin, ( canning wax will do).
(6) Forming the Beam: Using the jig, and a good grade of polyurethane glue, begin laying up the multiple pieces of the laminated beam. Continue until you have enough to equal 3 1/4” depth. Using every possible clamp begin to squeeze the jig halves together. It will be necessary to use a block and hammer to force the laminated pieces back into alignment as you clamp the jig together. Continue until the pieces are pressed together completely. Do not try to remove excess glue. Polyurethane glue expands as it cures, so remove the excess with a chisel when the entire beam is formed.
(7) Smoothing: Once the beam is cured you will have to smooth it. A thickness planer is best for this job, but if you do not have access to one you can use a regular smoothing plane. The goal is to make your new beam smooth and even.
(8). End Cuts: The next step is to make the end cuts. The pattern you made earlier is now used to determine length. The angles on the end of the beam are compound. That is, there are actually two angles to cut. The first is the angle between the cabin top and cabin side and the second is the angle between the cabin side and the bulkhead. An adjustable square is used to capture the second angle and transfer it to the new beam. (If you have not already removed the side trim and old header board you must do so now, before fitting the new beam)
(9) Fitting: 
The final bit of fitting involves the chain plates. Be sure that the chain plate bolts are positioned so that the nuts are put on from the forward cabin. This will allow for tightening them in the future. It will be necessary to measure and inlet the spaces for the chain plates.
After this is completed begin fitting the beam to the cabin top. By rubbing chalk on the cabin top you will be able to see exactly where the beam is hitting the cabin top. Carefully remove the areas that are preventing a close fit.
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(10) Attachment:
When a desirable fit has been achieved, temporally brace the beam in position and drill ten screw holes from the forward side
of the main cabin bulkhead. Make several index marks on the bulkhead and beam so you will know exactly where to return the beam. Liberally coat the beam side and cabin bulkhead area where the beam will meet with polyurethane glue. Reposition the beam and brace it in place. Using #12 by 3” stainless steel wood screws fasten the beam to the bulkhead. If you have a flexible drill extension your job will be somewhat easier as the break in the cabin will give you a few problems. Be very sure the beam has been tightly drawn against the bulkhead and that it is fully butted up to the cabin top.
Allow 24 hours for the glue to cure.
(11) Final Steps: remove all bracing, clean up the glue mess, finish sand the whole works and reattach your factory ID plate,
( if you are lucky enough to still have it). You will have to shorten the side trim pieces to fit in their new space.
There you are; a fool proof mast support that definitely will not sag!!
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Special note: You should check the cabin top chain plates at least twice each season to be sure they are not leaking. This is the primary source for rotted bulkheads in a Westwind. The best beam in the world will do you no good at all if it attached to a rotten bulkhead. Any questions check the e-mail question line; we will get back to you!! GOOD LUCK!!
Jim Schroeger
"Serendipity"
Traverse City, Michigan
©2004 Larry Boutilier, Duncan Cameron and Jim Shroeger
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